For most women mascara is the one item that they couldn't be without on a desert island. It is an essential part of any make-up routine, however simple . And with the return of glamour, mascara has once again taken centernter stage.

Mascara is the simplest way to define eyes. The contrast of dark lashes against the whites of the eyes can be more striking than the results of even the most complicated eyeshadow techniques. The latest mascara not only lengthen and darken but also care for your lashes, thanks to the addition of ingredients more usually found in skincare products. Conditioners and vitamins help protect lashes, which like all hair, are made up of protein and can be prone to brittleness and shedding.

What makes a Good Mascara

1. A well-shaped full brush, which coats lashes generously with each application.
2. The right texture. Clogged lashes indicate that the mascara is too thick and fibrous or the brush is inadequate (fibre-free mascara won't clog); flaky particles on lashes mean that the mascara is too dry.
3. The right consistency. If mascara is too thin it won' adhere to lashes and will smear.
4. Staying power. A good mascara should last all day without running or smudging around the eyes, even if it's not waterproof.
5. Easy removal. You should be able to wipe away all traces of mascara without rubbing.

Healthy Lashes

Healthy lashes are thick, long and strong and need just a coat of mascara to emphasize them. Lashes that are thin at the tips need slightly more maintenance but will benefit from the use of a good-quality mascara, which will protect them. For very thin, sparse or fragile lashes, an extra gentle mascara is essential; it should be hypoallergenic, fibre-free and unfragranced, as well as conditioning.

Technique

Careful application will result in long, full lashes. Never, apply more than two coats, to avoid lashes sticking together, and wipe the brush with a tissue to remove any excess before putting it near the eye. Then brush the upper lashes downward from the root and, when dry sweep the wand upwards, using a slight side-to-side motion. For the lower lashes, hold the wand vertically and stroke it from root to end, using the tip of the brush. Finally, gently separate and define eyelashes with a lash comb or a clean mascara wand. For a wide-eyed effect use a lash curler before applying mascara (plastic ones are kinder than metal), but make sure the pad is clean as any dirt will stick to lashes.

Mascara Removal

Never go to sleep without removing mascara. When you take it off, make sure you don't drag the delicate skin around the eye area. Moisten a cotton wool ball with remover and stroke it over the lashes in a downward motion until they're free of all traces of make-up. Be gentle-if you lose a lash it takes a couple of months for a new one to grow.

If you're shedding more than a couple of lashes a day it could be that you're allergic to your eye make-up.